![]() ![]() If you used conduit you're again defeating the weight advantage of using metal. You can just use grommets, depends on the wiring. I'd probably use electrical pvc pipe as conduit or conduit running with commercial standards. Hurricane straps can be use as well as some of the sheet plate hangers and joint materials used in building a wood deck, after a little fab work.Įlectrical runs through plastic grommets in the studs, the metal is sharp and would cut through insulation in no time, so don't run lose wire through metal studs. You're twisting the frame in three directions. I'd have diagonal strapping, top, bottom and sides, I'd have to see it to have an idea of where and how. It won't stretch or shrink but it does twist easier than wood. Flex, depends on the design, metal stud framing won't follow wood construction. Now, my stuff didn't go rolling down the road much less off road. You could use wood shims as a fillet between the horizontal rafter and the roofing material, or if a bowed roof a wood bow on top of the metal. That may present issues for a roof, you can't set studs or rafters with a twist to make an angle as the ends would be, say 15% off plumb to set a slanted roof to fit square to the roofing material, that would not be a secure joint. Metal framing fits at a 90 degree angle intended to be used with plumb and level construction. Use wood for attaching such interior work. So you need to layout your cabinet and furniture placement carefully. A Jack stud or short stud can be used between blocking vertically too. Wall blocking is done with wood and it needs to be cut square exactly to length for a good fit, it's not rough in carpentry anymore. ![]() (Using expandable foam, too much, could bend or bow studs if walls are attached, the 2x4 studs have very little lateral strength).Īnother downside is attaching wall cabinets or interior furniture, the gauge used in studs (I forget the gauge) can hold expanding wing bolts (spring loaded type) if you put much weight on any screw size you'll have problems as the screws will work lose IMO. If you use an 1/4" or 3/8ths ply wall covering and blow foam in that should stiffen a wall substantially. Strapping the studs with flat bar also helps as walls will be rather flimsy until all elements are attached. If you were to go from an 16" centers to 12" centers it will be much stronger, but you probably just lost your weight advantage. Metal can be stronger than wood, but the lateral strength comes from the covering of wall materials and the space between studs, the closer the better. If you use metal, I'd suggest you NOT use framing in this manner as an electrical ground for anything. In fact, if we factor in the learning curve for a first timer your framing job may take twice as long. In this case, time won't be a big plus, a small run of walls, short bracing and probably the mixture of wood and metal you probably won't be saving time here. Once you get use to working with metal a job can go much faster. The upside with metal, lighter (as mentioned) not rot and no cracking. If your connections are properly installed and "tabbed" at the top and bottom I doubt you'll have any squeak. Running wiring and plumbing is much easier than wood, at least in a 2x4 or 2圆 wall. Techniques differ from woodworking, you certainly don't bend anything anytime, you cut through it with a chop saw and allow the track (as a bottom plate) and studs as well as the top track (top plate) to be notched with clean fitting cut allowing "tabs" at 90 degree joints when appropriate and rivet those connections, otherwise you screw everything. Using metal studs really depends on your plans. Metal framing is lighter than 2x4 framing, it may not be with 2x3 or 2x2s. ![]() I've considered metal as well as I have worked with both metal and wood framing, but in general construction. ![]()
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